A symbol of bohemian and exoticism over the years “kaftan” has become the common term used in the fashion industry for any loose-fitting robe or tunic. It is used frequently to describe various types of clothing that are of Middle Eastern and North African origin (the djellaba, abaya, and burnouse for instance). An authentic kaftan consists of a narrowly cut, long robe that has sleeves that are full, whether with an open neck that is completely open to the floor or sometimes with buttons; the huge, bulky garment with no sleeves, commonly known as the kaftan actually is closer to the abaya.
Kaftan is a Persian word, and the garment style is believed to originate in Ancient Mesopotamia. The Ottoman sultans from the 14th through the 18th century wore extravagantly decorated Kaftans. They were also awarded as prizes to important dignitaries and generals. Kaftans can be made from almost any fabric; most are made from silk, wool, or cotton and are often bound by a sash. Kaftans are worn by women and men in various variations through and across the Iranian plateau, throughout North Africa, and into West Africa. They are typically worn in hot climates, the kaftan’s loose silhouette ensures proper ventilation, consequently decreasing body temperature (though Russians have a similar style of clothing called a Kaftan composed of fur).
When I was in Europe and North America, authentic kaftans were only worn by a few tourists and the eccentrics who brought them home from exotic expeditions as part of the fad that was popular for Orientalism and Turkish-style interiors throughout the 19th century. It was not until the 1950s and early 1960s that this style of dress began appearing in high fashion when it was adapted by French couturiers–including Christian Dior and Balenciaga–as a new form of a loose-fitting evening gown or a robe over matching trousers. By the year 1966, Vogue described the kaftan as an essential piece of clothing to wear by every member of the elite and also photographed “the beautiful people” in various imported traditional styles and western variations “Here are the top fashionable fashions ever invented The elegance of seraglio is evident in them, relaxation and leisure emanate from the kaftans. The classic robes of Near East, they’re now being seen all over the modern world, inspired by great dressmakers and every woman’s realization of beauty …”
The kaftan’s design was well-suited to the fashions of the following decade, being a simple shape that could be embellished with beads or heavily patterned or sleekly minimalist (as was seen in the designs made by Halston in the 1970s). Women entertaining at home wore this “kaftan dress,” while it was also the case that more traditional silhouettes were being brought into the United States and Europe by young people who had traveled the nascent “Hippie trail” from North Africa to Afghanistan. The popularity in America of the kaftan – from top-end to mass market and even cheap imports–resulted from its connection with exoticism as well as the easy-to-wear comfortable nature of these clothes. From the mid-1970s through to the past decade, the Kaftan was no longer seen on the majority of high fashion catwalks, instead becoming more associated with resort wear.
A shorter length that was cut to micro-mini, Tom Ford took the kaftan silhouette to the realm of the sexually edgy for Gucci Spring 1996. Designers looking to give their collections distinct “oriental” touch and nostalgia for the 1960s rediscovered the many possibilities of this dress. Fashion designers such as Temperley and Matthew Williamson have continually reanimated the Kaftan’s Bohemian mystery, and others like Naeem Khan as well as Elie Saab have taken the kaftan into the red carpet, with intricately beaded and embroidered versions. The striking and graphic design of the kaftan lets designers add their unique interpretations to it while usually maintaining the ease of style and comfort that makes it so popular with women all over the world.